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Whenever curating a ranking of London’s finest restaurants, one might anticipate renowned award-winning establishments. Yet, nestled near the top among these food giants is a modest salonu situated in a distant corner of northern London.

A Shocking Recognition

This small Turkish restaurant, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the fourth finest restaurant in the capital by a respected food magazine. This honour has left the owners utterly surprised.

“I am totally surprised,” says a owner’s son, referring to his parents’ relentless work that culminated in their small shop securing such a high ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Modesty

This compact space, which started as a simple cafe before its transformation into a buzzing food hotspot, has retained much of its earlier character. It fits just over 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking show, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy place,” notes the owner.

A Namesake Creation: Tantuni

However, it is all down to the cuisine, and this eatery certainly succeeds. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a succulent consistency.

The meat is then added into a large pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. When the savoury mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to absorb all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is wrapped neatly inside.

The wrap is typically eaten with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a mighty burst of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The respected food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For dessert, the restaurant’s künefe is a treat. It is doused in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a richer, nuttier and less sickly profile.

Outranking the Stars

Interestingly, this unassuming spot has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant stuffed for less than £25, similar experiences at luxury establishments can start at significantly more than that figure.

A Philosophy of Warmth

It is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well beyond the city’s central zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I don’t agree with that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This view is supported by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he were in a position of authority, he would “require to have every chef in London train at this spot as a masterclass, to teach them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Story of Hard Work

In contrast to most chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food did not train at Michelin-starred establishments. “I am truly happy of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its success is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum was extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a life outside work but her friends would come here to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. Each of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

A Accomplishment for the People

This restaurant’s success is bound to have meaning outside its own walls. “I believe a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the greater meaning of this gastronomic honour.